Sugared and Spiced

Summary


Put the clock back by a hundred years or more and we'd all be eating little apart from pork at this time of the year. The cottage pig would have been (probably noisily) slaughtered after being sweetened up on windfall apples during its last few weeks, the hams and bacon would be hanging up to cure in the smoke wreathing around the rafters, and the black puddings would be safely stored in their stone jars. Meanwhile, we'd all be gorging ourselves on chops and sausages.

If there was pork on the table day after day then you just knew it had to be autumn. But these days, with any notion of seasonality removed from our eating habits, thanks to the constant availability of everything, there's nothing to say there's anything particularly special about autumnal pork - unless you have the good fortune to be able to buy straight from a farm where they still rear animals traditionally.

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Extract


Sugared and Spiced

And there's nothing particularly thrilling about rummaging ...

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